80S - FASHION, DESIGN AND GRAPHICS IN FRANCE
Authors:Ouvrage collectif comprenant les contributions de nombreux historiens, chercheurs, journalistes et conservateurs : Lola Barillot, Axelle Baroin, Alexis Bernier, Mathilde Le Corre, Anne-Marie Fèvre, Dominique Forest, Jean-Louis Gaillemin, Amélie Gastaut, Étienne Hervy, Karine Lacquemant, Sophie Lemahieu, Pascal Ory, Marie Ottavi, Julien Péquignot, Philippe Poirrier, Sébastien Quéquet, Margo Rouard-Snowman.
Entretiens avec: agnès b., Gérard Dalmon, Sylvain Dubuisson, Chantal Hamaide, Jack Lang, Alain Le Quernec, Claude Maggiori, Claude Mollard et Philippe Morillon.
Graphisme : Helmo
**Image credits : **
1 Etienne Robial, logotype et grille de construction de M6, 1987 © Etienne Robial
2 Claude Montana, Robe en cuir très épaulée à boutonnage pressionné, Collection prêt-à-porter Printemps-Été 1979, « L'Officiel de la couture et de la mode », Février 1979 © Photo : Michel Picard / Éditions Jalou
3 Javier Mariscal, tabouret Duplex, 1980, édition BD ediciones de diseno, métal laqué en cinq couleurs, moleskine, Paris, musée des Arts décoratifs, dépôt du Centre national des arts plastiques, 1985, inv. FNAC 2739 © MAD, Paris / Beatrice Hatala
4 Claude Baillargeon, affiche Pour vivre en sécurité défendons chaque liberté. Parti socialiste l'autre politique, 1981, sérigraphie © Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, don bibliothèque Forney, 2016, inv. 2016.113.244
Catalog of the exhibition " Années 80.
Fashion, design and graphic design in France", presented at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris, from October 22, 2022 to April 16, 2023.
In the field of fashion, design and graphic design, the 1980s were a decade of explosive creativity in France. The election of François Mitterrand to the presidency of the Republic in 1981 marked the beginning of a new commitment by the State in the cultural sector, with major presidential works and a policy of aid to creation unprecedented in its scope. This catalog retraces both the context of this cultural policy carried out by Jack Lang and the diversity of creation during
this decade. With the opening of new galleries dedicated to design, its "trendy" places such as the Costes café, and the mythical clubs of the Palace and the Bains-Douches, Paris confirms its central place in the effervescence of cultural and festive life. Design takes many forms, with designers focusing on limited series - Garouste and Bonetti, Martin Szekely - or seeking to produce objects for the greatest number, Philippe Starck being the most emblematic. Haute couture is distinguished by strong personalities - Jean Paul Gaultier, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler -, and ready-to-wear, which is booming with brands like Naf-Naf or Kookaï, allows everyone to look according to their own style. The Japanese Kenzo and Issey Miyake, who settled in Paris, had a lasting influence on French fashion, while the imprint of countercultures on appearance was lasting. Graphic design is crossed by opposing currents. Alain Le Quernec, Jean Widmer and Grapus expressed themselves in social, cultural or political posters, while commercial graphics developed in parallel. The Eighties are also those of the liberalization of television, with
the creation by Etienne Robial of a dedicated television graphic design, adapted to color screens. The craze for advertising films continued unabated and reached its golden age, with Jean Paul Goude, Étienne Chatillez and Jean-Baptiste Mondino signing their most memorable clips. All these encounters provoke a collision that translates the eclecticism of the trends that run through society.