L'Évolution dans le vêtement
George-H. Darwin / Claire Debru
"The coat of the modern gentleman certainly comes from the jacket or long garment worn around the end of Charles II's reign. This jacket does not seem to have been fitted with a belt or fastener at the waist; it would have been buttoned all the way up, in order to make the ride easier, it would have been provided with a slit at the back, ready to be buttoned, the buttonholes were embroidered, and for the embroidery to appear. similarly on each side of the slit, the buttons were sewn on a strip of fabric matching the buttonhole ornaments."
Plunged into the workshop of a tailor, we are witnessing the dissection of all the lapels and other buttonholes, as we must do battle, for our greatest pleasure, with the falling folds of the frock coats. Equipped with an eye as sharp as expert, Darwin son revises the outfits from head to toe. To detect in the present forms of the garment the survival of very ancient usages, such is the task which he gives himself. For this he applies the theory of evolution to clothing, which is quick to reveal the progress of needs and customs. Reason why he chooses to be interested in men's clothing - more changing at the time - from the hat to the boots, of course through the coat, which he details in all its parts. The jacket will be different if, instead of riding, one borrows the railway. But it will retain traces of this need for ease, even in our current cloaks, split at the back.
The same way to roll up the edges of his hat meets different requirements up to the habit of still waxing his boots. As for the ribbons that enclose most of our felts, they would find their source in the cord that held the soft matter of headgear of the past. So many decorative elements that bear the mark of the past and retrace in themselves an evolution of the garment. But fashion also has its source in the love of novelty and the desire to mark the detail of its social position.
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